May 9, 2026 (Saturday). We leave Viterbo under sunny skies and with high spirits!

We start on the Viccolo dei Pelligrini, the traditional route out of Viterbo to Rome, and are outside the city walls in just a short time. We are soon walking along the mysterious Etruscan cave-road, then past fields edged with wildflowers and an abundance of poppies.

After about an hour and a half of walking, we detour to the Terme Tuscia, adding a few kilometers to the day’s total. The Lazio region is volcanic so there are many hot springs. Even though we haven’t “earned” a rest yet, we have to sample the local soaking culture!

Along the way, we pass farm fields, trek uphill past olive orchards, and are barked at by the large, white Maremmano dogs, traditional in this area for tending flocks of sheep. The general area we are walking in is known as Tuscia Viterbese, rich in Etruscan (pre-Roman) history. So far, we have seen just three other “pelligrini” (pilgrims) and have spent most of the day in rural areas without seeing another soul.

In the late afternoon, we visit Santa Maria di Foro Cassio, an 11th century church along the roadside, then walk up hill to the village of Vetralla, in the foothills of Monte Fogliano.

Our pilgrim passports have been stamped in Viterbo, Terme Etrusia, and at Santa Maria di Foro Cassio, satisfyingly validating our sense of accomplishment at the end of the day. Ever a gold-star sticker kid!